Framing and Rough Carpentry

The building is now secured and watertight. All the required demolition has been accomplished. It is now time to take the next step towards your new home. Framing is the first of the “rough” stages in a renovation. The framing and rough carpentry set the stage for all subsequent work - this is the phase where new walls are built and any structural changes are implemented.

Since carpenters are relatively expensive per hour, you may want to minimize the “non-skilled” labor they perform. If you are serving as general contractor, you may be able to save some money by helping the carpenters distribute the supplies when they are delivered. Even a moderate renovation with some alteration of walls may require upwards of 200 2x4’x to be piled throughout the house. Particularly if the project involves furring out walls, distributing lumber will require a large amount of labor. Before the new walls can be built, it is important that all extraneous debris is cleared out of the building. You probably don’t want to pay a carpenter to move piles of lath and old carpet to the dumpster.

Framing and the Trades

The plumber and HVAC contractors must have space within the walls and ceilings to run the supply lines, return (drain) lines, ducts, and vents. Building codes and structural requirements restrict how and where they can install systems, so it may be necessary to build soffits and chases (false ceilings and walls) around drains or vents that protrude into living spaces. Careful planning and special construction methods can minimize the effects of soffits and chases. The carpenter may frame the soffits and chases before or after the building systems are installed. If they are framed before, you must carefully coordinate so there is enough space inside. Also be aware that if you are applying for historic tax credits, building soffits and chases may negatively impact application. Make sure to get approval from the reviewer prior to building any soffits or visible chases.

If you have removed the plaster on the ceilings and intend to finish with drywall, now is the time to assess the joists for any high or low points. If you find significant variation across several joists, your carpenter can attach 2x4’s, cut and bend the studs, or install shims to provide a level surface for drywall installation.

Furring Out Masonry Walls

"Furring out" is the process of building a wall inside another wall. In renovations, this often takes the form of a new 2x4 stud wall built adjacent to an existing exterior masonry wall (see photo). Furring out allows for HVAC, plumbing, and electrical systems to be run easily and also for insulation to be added to increase energy efficiency. Carefully consider the following implications as you are deciding whether to fur out the walls in your project:

  1. You will need to drywall the new wall (even if the plaster on the existing exterior wall is in good condition)

  2. You will need to install new window sills and casings because the new wall is thicker than the existing
  3. You will need to remove and reinstall all the base moldings and trim
  4. The room will be made smaller
  5. You may need to move doors, switches, radiators, or other elements that are too close to the existing walls

Benefits include better energy efficiency, ease of installing new systems, you can provide a new flat wall surface, and you can cover damaged plaster easily. Carefully weigh the costs versus the benefits.

See also the article on vapor barriers.