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 <title>RenovateDSM.com - Comments</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com</link>
 <description>Comments</description>
 <language>en</language>
<item>
 <title>Recommendation</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/532#comment-167</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;[Recommendation submitted via e-mail]  Brian Smith of Des Moines is experienced and skilled at wood epoxy window repair.  He was a good friend of my late husband&#039;s and it was doubly good to have him do some repair on my own house this last summer (2009).  I was very pleased with the results and the work he did.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Wed, 03 Mar 2010 22:29:00 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 167 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Recommendation</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/532#comment-164</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;[Recommendation submitted via e-mail]&lt;/i&gt;  This is a letter of recommendation for Brian Smith of Des Moines.  Over the past three years I have retained Brian numerous times to work on my home in Beaverdale. I found him to be honest, dependable and courteous. He always provided quality workmanship no matter what the project. He has reglazed and painted windows, replaced broken panes, the results being my windows look virtually new.  He rebuilt a roof on my porch.  He has done interior painting and handiwork of all kinds.I have been satisfied in every instance and his prices are very reasonable. I would recommend him to anyone with similiar needs. &lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Thu, 25 Feb 2010 12:20:03 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 164 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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 <title>Rule is more restrictive in Iowa</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/412#comment-163</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;The EPA renovation rule is not as restrictive as Iowa&#039;s rule. Contractors need to be aware that disturbing more the 1 square foot of paint (either interior or exterior) cumulatively must be certified by the State of Iowa in lead safe work practices!&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Mon, 22 Feb 2010 07:03:13 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 163 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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 <title>heat tape</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/74#comment-162</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;Would this help to prevent the ice dams?  I see this on a few houses near the edge of the roof, so I assume it keeps the snow and ice to build up.  Anyone have any experience with this?&lt;br /&gt;
Thanks Susan&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:31:07 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 162 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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 <title>Update</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/487#comment-159</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;On December 16, 2009, this property was purchased by an &quot;MC Acquisitions, LLC&quot; - as of February 9, 2010, I was unable to find a Secretary of State corporation filing for this business.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2010 00:00:44 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 159 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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 <title>Spray Foam Insulation</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/74#comment-105</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;Spray foam is not necessarily a good idea if moisture gets trapped between wood that is surrounded by spray foam. If wood gets wet and can not dry out it rots and then eventually fails. Installing foam in walls of historic houses is also not recommended because moisture can be trapped and rot with sill or any horizontal surface. To avoid moisture being trapped in an insulated wall it is absolutely imperative to establish a vapor barrier on the inside (warm) wall. That means painting a vapor barrier on the wall or if the plaster is gone, installing a vapor barrier before installing plaster board.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 08:50:48 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 105 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Metal Roof</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/74#comment-104</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;We had a metal roof put on our house from bakeris roofing.. looks nice and will last longer than I will.   They put in a power fan with a humidistat.  It pulls air through the roof vents to keep the humidity down, so it sounds a bit strange walking by and hearing the roof fan on in this wonderful weather.  They also put in some additional vents along the hip of the roof as well.  Now that attic has insulation on the floor but basically it is just there, no real access or desire to go up there anyway.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;When they put the roof up there, they did put the vapor barrier and the usual stuff, but this is metal and they also fixed that so hopefully with the ice dams it won’t wick under.  I have some interesting icsicles out there.   It seems that  the warm days we did have ,  the ice went that way. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;It looks like it is going to be cold through next Sunday.   I have a Davis weather station and I put in the attic a probe that tells me the temperature and humidity…   it is 39F  and 73% humidity.  The fan will kick in when the humidity gets to 80%.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2010 15:00:16 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 104 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Ice Dams</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/74#comment-103</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;That is an excellent question... for those of you who are reading this and aren&#039;t familiar with &quot;ice dams&quot;, they occur when water works its way back up under shingles via the freeze/thaw cycle.  When the ice and snow on your roof melt, it resulting water can defeat the shingle system and find its way into the interior of a building.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of ice dams is an inadequate roof insulation and air sealing.  Believe it or not, you actually &lt;i&gt;want&lt;/i&gt; a cold roof surface in winter!  When warm air from your house warms the bottom of your roof surface, the bottom layer of snow melts and runs down the roof surface (as it is supposed to).  However, when it reaches the uninsulated eaves where there is not warm air from your house heating the roof, the water refreezes.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The refrozen water causes two main problems.  First, when water freezes (the &quot;ice&quot; part of the ice dam), it expands.  This expansion can lift your shingles and push your gutters and soffits away from your house.  Second, the &quot;dam&quot; part of an ice dam creates a barrier that prevents water from draining.  The melting water from the warm roof above is held in a pond against the shingles, which are not intended to serve as a pool liner.  The resulting water can then leak into the roof cavity and into the structure below.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Short term solution would be to chip-chip-chip.  I don&#039;t know of any other way to deal with existing ice dams, other than to perhaps close off all heat to your attic area and see if that can keep the roof surface cool enough to prevent new ice dams from forming.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The long term solution, of course, is to rework the insulation system to allow for adequate ventilation &lt;i&gt;above&lt;/i&gt; the insulation in your rafter system.  The cold air needs a path from the soffit all the way through to the ridge of your roof (typically at least 2&quot;) in order to provide enough circulation to keep the roof surface cold enough to prevent ice dams.  There are several products one can install that create a standoff distance between the fiberglass insulation and the roof sheathing.  &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The problem: in many older homes, the rafters are 2x4.  This is not enough space install fiberglass insulation with an adequate air space for ventilation.  In this case, there are two options: fully insulating the cavity with spray foam insulation and furring out the rafters to create more space within the rafter system.  Both options are probably quite spendy.  I don&#039;t have enough specific experience with spray foam insulation to say definitively whether it will solve an ice dam problem.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Typically, and I believe required by code nowadays, an ice and water shield is installed below the bottom three feet of shingles on a new shingle installation.  This barrier is essentially the same as a pool liner that provides an extra barrier to prevent water from infiltrating the roof system.  It is not a solution for the primary causes of ice dams, just an extra layer of protection for once they form.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&#039;m working on a page for RenovateDSM that details how to air-seal and insulate behind the wing walls of a finished attic space.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2010 13:01:51 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 103 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Ice Dam</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/74#comment-102</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;So now I&#039;ve joined the ranks of DSM homeowner to have ice dams.  I have lost my brother-in-law labor force who chipped off the ice dams over Christmas and now the ice dams are back.  I&#039;m dreading the warm-up and the resulting flood inside my house.  Any ideas on what to do to either prevent the impending flood and to prevent ice dams from forming?&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2010 08:06:20 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>wtangman</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 102 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Update on the Gas Station Move</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/320#comment-96</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;From the December 17, 2009, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmregister.com&quot;&gt;Des Moines Register&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;A historic East Village gas station spared from the wrecking ball earlier this year has yet to find a permanent home and likely will be moved from the neighborhood.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The gas station, which originally sat at 203 E. Grand Ave., was salvaged by residents interested in preserving its history. It&#039;s on a temporary site near the former Bud Mulcahy Jeep dealership at East Third and Walnut streets, and its current owner, antiques collector Jerry Bassman, had planned to move the station near the Northland Dairy building at 621 Des Moines St.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;That project has stalled, said Mike Kinter of Kinter Construction, who has arranged for the building&#039;s move. He said the building will not stay in the area and that a new deal is in the works.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Wed, 23 Dec 2009 06:41:28 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 96 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
</item>
<item>
 <title>DM Register Article</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/485#comment-92</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmregister.com&quot;&gt;Des Moines Register&lt;/a&gt; (December 11, 2009):&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;The house at 1075 26th St. could use a new lease on life. With any luck, its new owner will find a way to give it one.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The 120-year-old folk Victorian in the Drake neighborhood is the first structure on the Des Moines Rehabbers Club&#039;s 2009 list of most endangered buildings in the city.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The four-bedroom, 3,115-square-foot house on the southeast corner of 26th Street and Cottage Grove had been vacant for quite a while before it was purchased during a tax sale earlier this year. That buyer&#039;s plans changed, though, and the house was placed back on the market.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Neglect is obvious: Siding has been stripped and torn, there are holes in the once-stately front porch, and parts of the structure are open to the elements.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;But the home&#039;s proud exterior detailing, though tired and faded, remains in place.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Tony Strang, an agent with Re/Max Real Estate Concepts in Des Moines, said the house recently was purchased again, but he declined to reveal details of the sale.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&quot;It&#039;s a cash sale, and we&#039;re hoping it will be finalized by the end of the year,&quot; Strang said.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 13 Dec 2009 22:58:21 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 92 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Preservation Plan</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/321#comment-91</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;In July of 2009, the Des Moines City Council approved &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmgov.org/mayor_council/agendas/2009_as/072709/35.pdf&quot;&gt;a contract&lt;/a&gt; with Keffer/Overton Architects to do a historic preservation plan for the remaining buildings at the Fort.  Should be a really nice plan and get the preservation of those buildings moving in the right direction. &lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Wed, 09 Dec 2009 11:40:43 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 91 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Historic Survey</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/485#comment-84</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;The Drake neighborhood organization in partnership with the City of Des Moines has received two grants to fund a sample survey of historic structures across the neighborhood.  Hopefully, this survey will pave the way for future historic district nominations in the coming years.  National Register historic districts make contributing structures eligible for historic rehabilitation tax credits of up to 45% of the eligible renovation costs, depending on the use of the building.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 06 Dec 2009 07:38:33 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 84 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Excellent point.  Next year,</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/499#comment-79</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;Excellent point.  Next year, assuming the connector continues to move forward (at a slow pace, but forward nonetheless) perhaps someone will nominate some of the notable buildings to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://renovatedsm.com/node/315&quot;&gt;Most Endangered Buildings&lt;/a&gt; list.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:04:51 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>RenovateDSM</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 79 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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<item>
 <title>Old buildings</title>
 <link>http://renovatedsm.com/node/499#comment-78</link>
 <description>&lt;p&gt;The buildings are lost but the stories do remain and we can,and should, research them.  FYI - the North/South Connector was originally planned to end at Euclid and join MLK.  The new plan includes taking out all of the buildings on the west side of MLK from University to Euclid.  There are several significant structures, homes and businesses, in the path.  &lt;/p&gt;
</description>
 <pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:20:56 -0800</pubDate>
 <dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
 <guid isPermaLink="false">comment 78 at http://renovatedsm.com</guid>
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