This relatively simple project involved installing a chair rail made from 1x3 clear pine.

Tools

• Hammer and nail set

• Miter saw / miter box
• Chalk line and carpenter's pencil
• Tape measure
• Level
• Caulking gun
• Air nailer and/or cordless drill
• Paint brushes, rollers, trays, and rags

Supplies

• 1x3 clear pine or poplar (measure twice, cut once)

• 2" finish nails
• Wood filler
• Paintable latex caulk
• (optional) Construction adhesive
• Spray primer
• Wall primer and paint
• 120 grit sandpaper
• Tack cloth

Procedure

1. Sand - Sand the 1x3s to ease the edges a little. Wipe down the chair rail with a tack cloth.

2. Prime - Patch holes and prime the wall with roll-on primer. This is easier to do prior to installing the chair rail because there's less brush work. Preprime the chair rail with spray primer (this is an outside job!).
3. Measure - Mark the lower edge of the chair rail - in this example, the chair rail is aligned with the doorknob. The chair rail should be level, so don't measure up from the floor (in many older homes, the floors are not level).
   • Use the level to lay out guide marks around the room. For longer walls, use one of the 1x3s to extend the length of your level. A partner can hold one end while you adjust the other end to level and make a mark on the wall. Why level and not parallel to the floor? Two reasons. First, in an older house, it's likely that the floor is actually "wavy", so the chair rail would go up and down - not the most visually pleasing. Second, if the chair rail is level, all your corner cuts will be right angles. If the chair rail goes up and down with the floor, cuts at the corner will be various odd angles.

   • Verify that the guide line is level all around the room (the first mark and last mark should be at the same height).
   • Using the guides from the previous step, snap a chalk line around the room (a partner makes this job a lot easier).
4. Cut and Install Chair Rail - Measure out each section and secure to the wall with finish nails at 16" on center (into each stud). If the wall surface is drywall, you will need 2" nails. If the wall is plaster, use 2-1/2" nails to make sure you are able to nail into the studs. An air nailer will be handy. If you don't have one, predrill the nail holes with a cordless drill and bit slightly smaller than the nail.
   • Outside corners - Miter outside corners so you don't see the edge of a board.

   • Inside Corners - Inside corners should be "butt" joints. Run the first board all the way to the perpendicular wall and the perpendicular board into the first board.
   • Splices - If your board is shorter that your wall length, you will have to splice boards together. Splices should be at a 45 degree angle. This will allow you to run a nail through both boards and into the wall, securing them together.
   • (optional) If you want some extra security, run a bead of construction adhesive along the back side of the chair rail before nailing it to the wall. IMPORTANT: If you do this, you will not be able to remove the chair rail without damaging the wall.
5. Set Nails - Set the nails just below the surface of the chair rail. Fill the nail holes with wood filler. Sand briefly after the wood filler has dried.
6. Caulk - Run a small bead of caulk along all corners and transitions, particularly the top edge which is the most visible.
7. Paint - Paint the wall and chair rail. I used a flat paint for the walls and a semi-gloss for the chair rail to match the window trim which was already painted.

Note: Our four-year-old chose the green color!