"Furring out" is the process of building a wall inside another wall. In renovations, this often takes the form of a new 2x4 stud wall built adjacent to an existing exterior masonry wall (see photo). Furring out allows for HVAC, plumbing, and electrical systems to be run easily and also for insulation to be added to increase energy efficiency. Carefully consider the following implications as you are deciding whether to fur out the walls in your project:

1. You will need to drywall the new wall (even if the plaster on the existing exterior wall is in good condition)

2. You will need to install new window sills and casings because the new wall is thicker than the existing
3. You will need to remove and reinstall all the base moldings and trim
4. The room will be made smaller
5. You may need to move doors, switches, radiators, or other elements that are too close to the existing walls

Benefits include better energy efficiency, ease of installing new systems, you can provide a new flat wall surface, and you can cover damaged plaster easily. Carefully weigh the costs versus the benefits.

Once the decking is on, it is time to build the guard rail. Hopefully, your posts are all in the correct locations (plumb and true) and are cut to the correct lengths. In most situations, a guard rail has to meet the following conditions:

• At least 36" tall

• No openings greater than 4"
• No horizontal pieces that create a "ladder"

Other than that, there are few other restrictions. Some local historic districts may require that your railing be of a specific type, compatible with the historic railings in the district. If your project happens to be in a locally ordinance historic district, make sure that your proposed rail is approved.

The railing I built is a substantial rail with a 2x6 top cap, 2x4 rails, and 2x2 pickets. I built the rail in three steps - see the image below for a close-up of the rail construction.

First, I measured and cut the 2x4 rails and toe-screwed them into place. These screws simply held them in place until the actual supporting piece was installed. The bottom edge of the bottom rail was 4" from the decking and the top edge of the top rail was 34-1/2" from the decking, This spacing allows for the 2x6 top cap to end up at exactly 36" tall.

Next, I installed the 2x6 top cap, screwing down into the top rail along the length. Installing the top cap at this point created a hard edge against which to install the pickets. If the pickets were installed before the top rail, there would be the possibility that they would not line up consistently against the top rail.

Rough Layout

You will actually have to lay out your deck twice. The first time is a "practice run" for digging out the footing holes. You want this preliminary layout to be accurate enough to place the corners of the deck within a couple inches of their final location. Mark the location of each post so you can dig the holes for the footings.

There are a variety of methods for performing this task: string and stakes and 2x4's are the most common. Each one has its pros and cons. With either method, the first activity is to locate where the ledger board will attach to your house. This will be the starting point from which you measure distances and angles to lay out the deck.

String and Stakes
With this method, you know that your lines will be straight (shortest distance between two points...) and you can start digging right away once the corners have been located. The major downsides are that distance and angles are harder to measure. First attach a string at one corner of the future ledger board. Stretch it out about two feet past the outside corner of the deck (at a right angle) and tie it to a stake. Do the same for the opposite corner. Stake out the outside edge of the deck in the same manner, overshooting each corner by about two feet. Overshooting the corners and using multiple lines will allow you to make finer adjustments to create right angles and even sides because you can pull up and relocate stakes individually. If your layout is square, the distance between opposite corners will be equal - check the opposite corners and each side to make sure they all match up as they should.

The building is now secured and watertight. All the required demolition has been accomplished. It is now time to take the next step towards your new home. Framing is the first of the “rough” stages in a renovation. The framing and rough carpentry set the stage for all subsequent work - this is the phase where new walls are built and any structural changes are implemented.

Since carpenters are relatively expensive per hour, you may want to minimize the “non-skilled” labor they perform. If you are serving as general contractor, you may be able to save some money by helping the carpenters distribute the supplies when they are delivered. Even a moderate renovation with some alteration of walls may require upwards of 200 2x4’x to be piled throughout the house. Particularly if the project involves furring out walls, distributing lumber will require a large amount of labor. Before the new walls can be built, it is important that all extraneous debris is cleared out of the building. You probably don’t want to pay a carpenter to move piles of lath and old carpet to the dumpster.

Framing and the Trades

The plumber and HVAC contractors must have space within the walls and ceilings to run the supply lines, return (drain) lines, ducts, and vents. Building codes and structural requirements restrict how and where they can install systems, so it may be necessary to build soffits and chases (false ceilings and walls) around drains or vents that protrude into living spaces.