Rough Layout

You will actually have to lay out your deck twice. The first time is a "practice run" for digging out the footing holes. You want this preliminary layout to be accurate enough to place the corners of the deck within a couple inches of their final location. Mark the location of each post so you can dig the holes for the footings.

There are a variety of methods for performing this task: string and stakes and 2x4's are the most common. Each one has its pros and cons. With either method, the first activity is to locate where the ledger board will attach to your house. This will be the starting point from which you measure distances and angles to lay out the deck.

String and Stakes
With this method, you know that your lines will be straight (shortest distance between two points...) and you can start digging right away once the corners have been located. The major downsides are that distance and angles are harder to measure. First attach a string at one corner of the future ledger board. Stretch it out about two feet past the outside corner of the deck (at a right angle) and tie it to a stake. Do the same for the opposite corner. Stake out the outside edge of the deck in the same manner, overshooting each corner by about two feet. Overshooting the corners and using multiple lines will allow you to make finer adjustments to create right angles and even sides because you can pull up and relocate stakes individually. If your layout is square, the distance between opposite corners will be equal - check the opposite corners and each side to make sure they all match up as they should.

The most common causes of ice dams are inadequate roof insulation and ineffective interior air sealing. Believe it or not, you actually want a cold roof surface in winter! When the warm air from your house warms the bottom of your roof surface, the bottom layer of snow melts and runs down the roof surface (as it is supposed to). However, when it reaches the uninsulated eaves or gutter where there is not warm air from your house heating the roof, the water refreezes.

Once the decking is on, it is time to build the guard rail. Hopefully, your posts are all in the correct locations (plumb and true) and are cut to the correct lengths. In most situations, a guard rail has to meet the following conditions:

• At least 36" tall

• No openings greater than 4"
• No horizontal pieces that create a "ladder"

Other than that, there are few other restrictions. Some local historic districts may require that your railing be of a specific type, compatible with the historic railings in the district. If your project happens to be in a locally ordinance historic district, make sure that your proposed rail is approved.

The railing I built is a substantial rail with a 2x6 top cap, 2x4 rails, and 2x2 pickets. I built the rail in three steps - see the image below for a close-up of the rail construction.

First, I measured and cut the 2x4 rails and toe-screwed them into place. These screws simply held them in place until the actual supporting piece was installed. The bottom edge of the bottom rail was 4" from the decking and the top edge of the top rail was 34-1/2" from the decking, This spacing allows for the 2x6 top cap to end up at exactly 36" tall.

Next, I installed the 2x6 top cap, screwing down into the top rail along the length. Installing the top cap at this point created a hard edge against which to install the pickets. If the pickets were installed before the top rail, there would be the possibility that they would not line up consistently against the top rail.

Once the water and sewer connections are complete, the foundation can be backfilled. The foundation contractor came back out and pushed the dirt back into the hole around the foundation.

The roof serves as your home’s primary barrier to rain and snow - keeping water out of your home is particularly important during construction. Water is an enemy of most construction materials and trapped moisture can encourage growth of mold.

The procedure for building a deck is roughly as follows:

1. Drawings and Permit

2. Lists - Make lists of the materials you will need (add in about 10%-15% for waste) and the tools you will need.
3. Rough Layout - Block out the approximate shape of your deck using 2x4's or string and stakes.
4. Dig Footings - In Des Moines, footings must be a minimum of 36" deep to get below the frost line.
5. Hole Inspection - The building inspector may need to stop by to measure the depth of the holes before you pour any concrete.
   

The most common causes of ice dams are inadequate roof insulation and ineffective interior air sealing. Believe it or not, you actually want a cold roof surface in winter! When the warm air from your house warms the bottom of your roof surface, the bottom layer of snow melts and runs down the roof surface (as it is supposed to). However, when it reaches the uninsulated eaves or gutter where there is not warm air from your house heating the roof, the water refreezes.

Read More about ice dams.

A tar-based waterproofing material is sprayed on the foundation walls to reduce water infiltration. The basement is deep enough to allow for a semi-finished space if the owner of the house ever decides to do so. It will also be plumbed for eventual addition of a bathroom.

The yellow piece under the window is a fiber-based material designed to wick water away from below the window.

It looks like the waterproofing material was sprayed above the final grade line. If this ends up being the case, I may consider painting it to match the foundation.

The most common causes of ice dams are inadequate roof insulation and ineffective interior air sealing. Believe it or not, you actually want a cold roof surface in winter! When the warm air from your house warms the bottom of your roof surface, the bottom layer of snow melts and runs down the roof surface (as it is supposed to). However, when it reaches the uninsulated eaves or gutter where there is not warm air from your house heating the roof, the water refreezes.

Ice dams occur when snow on your roof melts in below-freezing temperatures due to heat from the interior of the building. The resulting water can refreeze at the edge of the roof, defeating the shingle system and finding its way into the interior of a building.

Dig safely!

Iowa law requires that any person (including homeowners, professionals, and public or private entities) planning any type of excavation work within the state of Iowa, must notify the Iowa One Call notification system at least 48 hours prior to excavating. Iowa One Call will come to the site to mark the locations of all buried utilities.

To arrange for this FREE service, call 1-800-292-8989.

You will need a good selection of both hand and power tools to build a deck. The list below gives a general idea of the scope of tools required.

Power Tools

• Circular Saw - if you buy cheap ones, you will also probably go through at least three blades

• Miter Saw - for cutting pickets and other finish work
• Cordless Drill - with at least two battery packs
  • Masonry bits - predrilling for masonry anchors (if required)

  • Spade bits - drilling holes for through-bolts at posts
    

In order to legally construct a deck, you have to get a building permit. As long as standard construction practices are adhered to and you aren't trying to do anything too "out of the ordinary," you will most likely be allowed to prepare your own permit drawings. You may find, however, that it pays to take advantage of the experience, design talent, and drawing skills of a professional to prepare your drawings.

A well designed and solidly built deck can help extend the usable living space in your house (as well as increasing its value). With a relatively small tool investment, some hard manual labor, and a willingness to "measure twice and cut once", building a deck is a home improvement activity that many people may have the capability to take on themselves.

This following pages outline the process I took to build my deck. As with any construction task, if you get four people in a room, you will have five opinions on how to best accomplish it. Accordingly, it is important to recognize that the materials and methods presented here are only one way of approaching this moderately complex task.

Even the best planned deck will necessitate some creative in-the-field problem solving - no measurements are perfect, no cuts completely accurate, and not all circumstances can be prepared for ahead of time. My basic advice would be to plan well, order extra materials, take extra time, and be willing to hop in the car to make several trips to the local hardware store.

During construction it is likely that the lawn will sustain significant damage from building material storage, dumpsters, machinery, utility trenching, and general use. Once the finish carpentry begins, however, most of the heavy yard use is over – you can begin to clean up debris and plan any landscaping you want done.