How To

Building a Deck - Framing

RenovateDSM — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 21:37:20 -0700

Rough Layout

You will actually have to lay out your deck twice. The first time is a "practice run" for digging out the footing holes. You want this preliminary layout to be accurate enough to place the corners of the deck within a couple inches of their final location. Mark the location of each post so you can dig the holes for the footings.

There are a variety of methods for performing this task: string and stakes and 2x4's are the most common. Each one has its pros and cons. With either method, the first activity is to locate where the ledger board will attach to your house. This will be the starting point from which you measure distances and angles to lay out the deck.

String and Stakes
With this method, you know that your lines will be straight (shortest distance between two points...) and you can start digging right away once the corners have been located. The major downsides are that distance and angles are harder to measure. First attach a string at one corner of the future ledger board. Stretch it out about two feet past the outside corner of the deck (at a right angle) and tie it to a stake. Do the same for the opposite corner. Stake out the outside edge of the deck in the same manner, overshooting each corner by about two feet. Overshooting the corners and using multiple lines will allow you to make finer adjustments to create right angles and even sides because you can pull up and relocate stakes individually. If your layout is square, the distance between opposite corners will be equal - check the opposite corners and each side to make sure they all match up as they should.

Building a Deck - Railing

RenovateDSM — Fri, 24 Aug 2007 18:29:22 -0700

Once the decking is on, it is time to build the guard rail. Hopefully, your posts are all in the correct locations (plumb and true) and are cut to the correct lengths. In most situations, a guard rail has to meet the following conditions:

At least 36" tall
No openings greater than 4"
No horizontal pieces that create a "ladder"

Other than that, there are few other restrictions. Some local historic districts may require that your railing be of a specific type, compatible with the historic railings in the district. If your project happens to be in a locally ordinance historic district, make sure that your proposed rail is approved.

The railing I built is a substantial rail with a 2x6 top cap, 2x4 rails, and 2x2 pickets. I built the rail in three steps - see the image below for a close-up of the rail construction.

First, I measured and cut the 2x4 rails and toe-screwed them into place. These screws simply held them in place until the actual supporting piece was installed. The bottom edge of the bottom rail was 4" from the decking and the top edge of the top rail was 34-1/2" from the decking, This spacing allows for the 2x6 top cap to end up at exactly 36" tall.

Next, I installed the 2x6 top cap, screwing down into the top rail along the length. Installing the top cap at this point created a hard edge against which to install the pickets. If the pickets were installed before the top rail, there would be the possibility that they would not line up consistently against the top rail.

Building a Deck

RenovateDSM — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 17:31:35 -0700

A well designed and solidly built deck can help extend the usable living space in your house (as well as increasing its value). With a relatively small tool investment, some hard manual labor, and a willingness to "measure twice and cut once", building a deck is a home improvement activity that many people may have the capability to take on themselves.

This following pages outline the process I took to build my deck. As with any construction task, if you get four people in a room, you will have five opinions on how to best accomplish it. Accordingly, it is important to recognize that the materials and methods presented here are only one way of approaching this moderately complex task.

Even the best planned deck will necessitate some creative in-the-field problem solving - no measurements are perfect, no cuts completely accurate, and not all circumstances can be prepared for ahead of time. My basic advice would be to plan well, order extra materials, take extra time, and be willing to hop in the car to make several trips to the local hardware store.

Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps Online

RenovateDSM — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 11:06:46 -0700

The State Library of Iowa has online access to the Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps for cities throughout the state, including Des Moines. The Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps were created to assist insurance agencies in determining insurance risk for individual buildings. The originals consist of bound books, indexed by street address range, that map out property lines, building footprints, and construction type.

Historically, insurance companies relied on these books to underwrite policies. Today, precise actuarial tables take into account a broader variety of structural and owner characteristics, and the Sanborn maps are used primarily in historical research - they remain one of the most complete accountings of the urban built environment available.

Through the State Library of Iowa, the Sanborn maps from 1884, 1891, 1901, 1906, and 1920 (with updates into the '50s) are available online. The earlier maps, up to 1906, only cover a small portion of the current Des Moines city.

In order to access the maps online, you must register for a FREE State Library of Iowa card number. The administrator will e-mail you your assigned access number within a few days.

Once you have your library card number, use it to log in to http://www.statelibraryofiowa.org/services/resources/sanborn-login. Simply follow the instructions for accessing the maps for the town you are interested in. You will probably have to zoom in on the first few pages (which are the index) to find the address you are looking for.

End of July Pruning Chores

RenovateDSM — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 11:47:40 -0700

This article was written by Greg F., a member of the St. Louis Rehabbers Club. You can contact him at thewatershed@juno.com.

Killing Mold the Green Way - No Bleach?

RenovateDSM — Wed, 25 Jun 2008 11:04:48 -0700

Many building materials like drywall, lumber, plywood, even siding make wonderful food for mold when wet. Bleach is the first solution that usually springs to mind when dealing with a mold problem.

Two-Color Paint Job with Chair Rail

RenovateDSM — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 20:37:08 -0700

This relatively simple project involved installing a chair rail made from 1x3 clear pine.

Tools

Hammer and nail set
Miter saw / miter box
Chalk line and carpenter's pencil
Tape measure
Level
Caulking gun
Air nailer and/or cordless drill
Paint brushes, rollers, trays, and rags

Supplies

1x3 clear pine or poplar (measure twice, cut once)
2" finish nails
Wood filler
Paintable latex caulk
(optional) Construction adhesive
Spray primer
Wall primer and paint
120 grit sandpaper

Reglazing a Historic Wood Window Sash - VIDEO

RenovateDSM — Mon, 07 Apr 2008 08:43:19 -0700

Des Moines Rehabbers Club member Kelli Griffis edited together footage she took at the April 2008 DSMRC meeting and created this great "how-to" video. The video is about 50 minutes and takes you through the process from removing the sash to removing old glazing, taking out the glass, cleaning/repairing the sash, and finally reinstalling the glass and reglazing. Also listen for some great information and advice from Jack Porter of the Iowa Historical Society.

Angela Thorne demonstrates how to reglaze a historic wood window sash:

Reglazing a Historic Double Hung Window Sash

RenovateDSM — Sun, 06 Apr 2008 19:56:13 -0700

Before you replace your historic home's original wood windows, consider the historic, economic, ecological, and technical benefits of repairing the ones you already have. Despite what the salespeople tell you, replacement is NOT necessarily the best option... The original wood windows in your house may have been there for 100 years already - with proper repair and maintenance, they may be able to serve you for 100 more!

What Did My House Used To Look Like?

RenovateDSM — Mon, 04 Feb 2008 10:58:56 -0800

[contributed to RenovateDSM by Jennifer Irsfeld James, MAHP]

Architect-designed houses rare. More commonly built by builders – and may have evolved over time. Especially for 19th-century houses, may have started with a cottage that was expanded over time.

Sanborn Maps

Look for the footprint of your house on the Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps, available online to Des Moines Public Library card holders.

The Sanborn company produced these detailed plans for use by fire insurance companies and fire departments during a time when fires were a common hazard.

Fire insurance maps of the neighborhood, commonly called “Sanborn maps”, will show the outline of the house and any outbuildings, number of stories, and any outbuildings. Since new maps were often produced every 10 to 20 years, comparing maps may yield clues to additions and other alterations made to structures on the property, as well as changes to street names and numbers.

Savvy homeowners use these maps to help date construction and aid in reconstruction of original porches and carriage houses/garages, plus inappropriate additions best to be removed.

Maps of Des Moines were drawn in 1884, 1891, 1901, and 1920, with updates made through 1956.

Each map shows the most developed areas of the city, where the threat of fire was greatest. It's possible you may not find your address on every map.

Be aware that some street names and numbers (addresses) have changed over the years. In addition, construction of I-235 and university expansion have destroyed many houses, so it can be a bit disorienting to look at pre-1950 maps.

Also keep in mind that these maps were drawn by hand -- so even though they are highly accurate, some minor errors were made. Those caveats aside, the Sanborn maps are a key resource for unlocking the history of your house.

Talk With Neighbors and Locate Previous Residents

A neighbor (or former neighbor) may have a cache of photos that show your house.

Photos, letters, ephemera, oral history from previous neighbors/residents/owners and relatives of the same are best and perhaps most overlooked resources!

Learn About Your Neighborhood

Many resources categorized by historic names of neighborhoods and one-time suburbs now part of the city.

State Historical Society Of Iowa Historical Research Library
Des Moines Public Library
Drake University’s Cowles Library, etc.

When Was My House Built and Who Lived There?

RenovateDSM — Mon, 04 Feb 2008 10:51:54 -0800

[contributed to RenovateDSM by Jennifer Irsfeld James, MAHP]

These two questions can often be answered via the same research route. An important piece of the puzzle is to determine when the house was built – what’s listed in the assessor’s database is not always accurate. A lot of the history of a home is the history of the families who have lived there.

Building a Deck - Tools You Will Need

RenovateDSM — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:41:21 -0700

You will need a good selection of both hand and power tools to build a deck. The list below gives a general idea of the scope of tools required.

Power Tools

Circular Saw - if you buy cheap ones, you will also probably go through at least three blades
Miter Saw - for cutting pickets and other finish work
Cordless Drill - with at least two battery packs
- Masonry bits - predrilling for masonry anchors (if required)
- Spade bits - drilling holes for through-bolts at posts
  
  read more

Building a Deck - Process Overview

RenovateDSM — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:35:54 -0700

The procedure for building a deck is roughly as follows:

Drawings and Permit
Lists - Make lists of the materials you will need (add in about 10%-15% for waste) and the tools you will need.
Rough Layout - Block out the approximate shape of your deck using 2x4's or string and stakes.
Dig Footings - In Des Moines, footings must be a minimum of 36" deep to get below the frost line.
Hole Inspection - The building inspector may need to stop by to measure the depth of the holes before you pour any concrete.

read more

Building a Deck - Planning

RenovateDSM — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 20:21:21 -0700

In order to legally construct a deck, you have to get a building permit. As long as standard construction practices are adhered to and you aren't trying to do anything too "out of the ordinary," you will most likely be allowed to prepare your own permit drawings. You may find, however, that it pays to take advantage of the experience, design talent, and drawing skills of a professional to prepare your drawings.

Furring Out Masonry Walls

RenovateDSM — Sun, 22 Jul 2007 21:16:19 -0700

"Furring out" is the process of building a wall inside another wall. In renovations, this often takes the form of a new 2x4 stud wall built adjacent to an existing exterior masonry wall (see photo). Furring out allows for HVAC, plumbing, and electrical systems to be run easily and also for insulation to be added to increase energy efficiency. Carefully consider the following implications as you are deciding whether to fur out the walls in your project:

You will need to drywall the new wall (even if the plaster on the existing exterior wall is in good condition)
You will need to install new window sills and casings because the new wall is thicker than the existing
You will need to remove and reinstall all the base moldings and trim
The room will be made smaller
You may need to move doors, switches, radiators, or other elements that are too close to the existing walls

Benefits include better energy efficiency, ease of installing new systems, you can provide a new flat wall surface, and you can cover damaged plaster easily. Carefully weigh the costs versus the benefits.